Review: 5.10 Moccasyms

Posted: 12th August 2011 by 7ucyClark in climbing, not a sports blog, review

For Casual Affairs Only

$99.95 from REI

I picked these up back in February as an alternative gym shoe. I’d been looking for a ‘slipper’ style shoe for a while, the Moccasym seemed reasonably priced, and I’ve had good experiences with 5.10 (in fact, my outdoor shoe is the 5.10 Coyote VCS 2).
And the ‘grape stompers’ have worked out reasonably well… I’ve got probably a little over a hundred hours in them, and I’m not sad that I bought them. But that’s the thing: while I’m not sad… I can’t really recommend them, either.
The entire reason for the purchase was so that I could get in and out of them sort of on the fly. But that ain’t gonna happen. In order for them to be secure on the foot, the uppers are cut tight, and it requires (at least, for my foot) a seated maneuver.
Additionally, the fit isn’t all that solid; aggressive heel-hooks will pull the shoe right off, especially if one is prone to ‘moist’ feet. Which brings me to the appellation ‘grape stompers’. The color of the shoe is snazzy; I’ll be the first to admit that. I like it. However… I’m still getting dye-transfer after wearing them. And I’m not talking ‘a little pink’. I’m talking, “Oh my god, what’s wrong with your feet!?” red.
Now, having slammed the shoe, I need to mention that they are very comfortable. They don’t bother my feet at all, as many shoes (Coyote included) do, and I’m not compelled to take them off between climbs. That may be a result of the lack of support– a trade-off I’m happy to make. Additionally, the pliable nature of the shoes transmits the feel of the climbing surface pretty well, so you always know how you’re standing in relation to the hold. And for a shoe that is so flexible, they edge better than one would expect.
I’ve noticed that a common complaint regarding the Mocs is durability; again, I’ve had mine for several months, and I’m not the most graceful, or the smoothest climber… but my shoes seem to be holding up Ok, in spite of pedaling on the wall. But maybe the gym is less abrasive than outdoor climbing. Oreo.

So… bottom line is:
They’re good shoes, but not great. They are well suited to the purpose for which I got them: a good set of gym run-abouts. But I’d never take them outside.
When these blow through, I’m not sure that I’ll get them resoled.
The fact of the matter is, Velcro straps make getting in & out easier, and allow for a more secure fit. They just don’t look as slick.

Virtues:
-very comfortable
-allows the climber to feel the rock
-color

Liabilities:
-ingress/egress is a little bit of a wrestling match.
-not great for inversions; will pull off in heel-hooks
-turns your feet red

  1. Lucy Clark says:

    Bloody red feet, I agree, not good. Thanks for the review!